The Waikabubak bus will usually take you all the way to PERO , a seaside village with one losmen. The village is not constructed in traditional Sumbanese style, but its rough cobbled street flanked by colourful wooden houses has a certain charm. Numerous kampung with teetering high roofs and mossy stone tombs dot the surrounding countryside, only a short walk away. The Homestay Story (under $5 full board) is quite clean and provides huge meals, but come prepared for the mosquitoes. To get to the beach, walk down the path outside the losmen and then either head left across the river or right, down to where the most regular offshore surf breaks are. The beach to the left is very sheltered with a narrow stretch of fine sand, whereas the other is far more exposed. Both have dangerous currents - the undertow can be ferocious and even with a surfboard you're not necessarily safe.