The villages of eastern Sumba have made small concessions to modernity, now sporting rusty metal roofs on their houses and using concrete to build their tombs. Most of these villages are used to visitors and will request around Rp1000 as a "signing-in fee". East of Waingapu, and just before the larger town of Melolo, are PAU and UMBARA . Pau, though tiny, is actually an independent kingdom with its own rajah, an interesting character who is very knowledgeable about Sumba and its traditions. Umbara has a few thatched-roof houses. Buses from Waingapu to Melolo (Rp3000) run until late afternoon and you can ask the driver to stop at Pau or Umbara.

MELOLO , 62km from Waingapu, has three high-roofed houses and a few crudely carved tombs as well as a clean and friendly losmen (under $5). The next major settlement as you head east is RENDE . Here the house roofs are all made from tin, but are nevertheless spectacular, and doorways are adorned with huge buffalo horns. Rende is also the site of the finest tombs in East Sumba, huge flat slabs topped by animal carvings. There are buses every couple of hours direct to Rende from Waingapu (Rp3500), and occasional trucks; otherwise, catch a bus to Melolo and one of the regular bemos, buses or trucks from there.

About 40km out of Waingapu on the road west to Waikabubak, a turn-off leads down to TARIMBANG on the south coast. Here the Martin Homestay (under $5 full board), with its rooms fashioned to resemble Sumbanese clan houses, caters for surfers and those looking for quiet beaches and a bit of relaxation.