To visit Siberut independently , you'll need to get a permit in Padang from PT Mentawai Wisata Bahari, Jl Sumatera X5, Wisma Indah 1 (Mon-Sat 8am-5pm; tel 0751/52335): you won't be sold a boat ticket without one. Go to the office at least a day in advance (for travel on Monday, apply on Friday), with a photocopy of your passport, including the Indonesian entry stamp, and immigration card. You should approach the Siberut Guide Association (tel 0759/21064) to find a guide . An all-inclusive five-day guided tour/trek will cost Rp600,000 for one person or Rp350,000 each for three people.

Two companies run ferries between Padang and the island: PT Rusco Lines, Jl Bt Arau 88 D/11 (tel 0751/21941; Mon & Wed to Siberut and Sikabulan; return Tues & Thur) and PT Semeleue, Jl Bt Arau 7h (Sat to Siberut; return Mon). Tickets are Rp10,000, plus Rp1000 port tax for deck class or Rp15,000 plus tax for a cabin. The lower decks are close to the extremely noisy, exhaust-belching engine. In a cabin you'll get one of the four bunks on the next deck up.