Five hours east of Ampana lies the small Bajau town of PAGAIMANA , a dense collection of houses built over the water next to a busy port. From here the overnight ferry to Gorontalo (10hr) departs on alternate days. Buy an ekonomi fare (Rp27,500) at the harbour, and then negotiate a cash donation with the purser for a mattress on the floor of the air-con first-class room. If you've just arrived from Gorontalo, you'll be grabbed and ushered towards a host of minibuses heading to Ampana and Poso.