Cocooned in a cool, isolated valley 1200m up in the mountains above Polewali, the Mamasa region - also known as Western Toraja - occupies a landscape of terraced hills with fairly easy hiking to numerous traditional villages, most of which feature extraordinary architecture and noticeably friendly people. Though culturally similar to their eastern neighbours in Tanah Toraja, Western Toraja's heritage is much lower-key; consequently, the hordes of foreigners are absent, and the area is welcoming without catering overly to mass tourism.

The only settlement of any size in the valley is Mamasa , reached either along a two- to four-day hiking trail from Tanah Toraja or by road from the coast via Polewali, covered by buses from Makassar and Rantepao. Vehicles also originate in POLEWALI itself, leaving whenever full; opt for a bus if possible, as minibuses are very cramped and on their last legs (95km; 5hr). If you need to stay in Polewali, the delightful Hotel Melati (tel 0428/21075; under $5) is at Jl Ahmed Yani 71, 300m east of where transport departs for Mamasa.