A monument to Sulawesi's colonial era, Fort Rotterdam on Jalan Makassar (daily 7.30am-6pm, donation expected; museum Tues-Thurs 8am-1pm, Fri 8-10.30am, Sat and Sun 8am-noon, Rp750) was established as a defensive position in 1545 and enlarged a century later when the Dutch commander Cornelius Speelman rechristened it in memory of his home town. It remained the regional Dutch military and governmental headquarters until the 1930s. The fort's high, thick walls are its most impressive feature and worth climbing to get a look at the tall, white buildings inside. On the northwest side, Speelman's House - actually dating from after his death in 1686 - is the oldest surviving building, and nestles next to one half of La Galigo museum (Rp500), whose most interesting item is a prehistoric megalith from Watampone, and displays on local silk weaving, agriculture and boatbuilding.

South of Fort Rotterdam, Jalan Makassar runs down along the seafront as Jalan Penghibur, also known as Pantai Losari , which is famous for its evening food stalls. Parallel and just east of Jalan Penghibur, Jalan Somba Opu is known across Indonesia for its gold shops; other stalls sell silk from Sengkang, intricate silver filigree in the Kendari style, and potentially antique Chinese porcelain, all priced at about three times what you'd pay elsewhere. The street's southern end is crossed by Jalan Mochtar Lufti, down which you'll find the privately owned Clara Bundt Orchid Gardens at no. 15a (visitors welcome to look around).

Northwest of Medan Karebosi, and bordered by north-oriented Jalan Nusantara and Jalan Irian (aka Jalan Sudirohusodo), the Chinese quarter is worth a look for its half-dozen temples, decked in dragons and brightly coloured decor, which cluster along the lower reaches of Jalan Sulawesi.

From Pasar Sentral, catch a pete-pete heading 3km north up Jalan Sudarso to where Bugis prahu from all over Indonesia unload and embark cargo at Paotere harbour (Rp350 admission). Though the smell and lack of sanitation can be a bit much on a hot day, it's quite a spectacle when the harbour is crowded, the red, white and green prahu lined up along the dock wall with much shifting of bales, boxes, barrels and jerry cans on backs and carts.