For unequalled atmosphere and the lowest prices, try the after-dark alfresco stalls opposite Fort Rotterdam on Jalan Makassar. Another fine evening spot is the sea wall above Pantai Losari along Jalan Penghibur, whose kilometre-long string of mobile food carts sell more seafood, fried rice, noodles and cakes. One bar worth patronizing for sunset views and evening atmosphere is the Taman Safari, on the corner of Jalan Penghibur and Jalan Haji Bau, south of the Stella Maris hospital.

Asia Baru , Jl Gunung Salahutu 2. Inexpensive fish restaurant, whose menu classes items according to size and quantity of bones. Open daily 11am-2pm & 5-10pm.

Kafe Raja Burger , corner of Jl Merapi and Sungai Saddang. Indonesian versions of pizza and burgers, as well as usual rice-oriented selection.

Lumayan , Jl Samalona 9. Bugis-run restaurant offering well-priced servings of staples such as sate, excellent grilled fish, and nasi campur.

Malabar , Jl Sulawesi 290. Indian restaurant with functional decor and no vegetable, let alone vegetarian, courses. Otherwise, a short but very tasty menu offering crisp, light martabak, aromatic sate and curries, and kebuly rice specials (usually chicken korma) served noon to midnight on Friday.

Maxim I , Jl Sulawesi 42, corner of Jl Serui. Mid-range, sociable Chinese restaurant doing brisk trade in takeaways, and the finest pineapple chicken in Sulawesi.

Surya , Jl Nusakambangan 16. Nothing but mid-priced shellfish - great crab - and rice here.