The sleepy port of DONGGALA , 40km north of Palu, is a peaceful town, and the perfect place to unwind for a few days, checking out the shallow-draft Bugis schooners in the harbour, or enjoying the shallow seas hereabouts. Minibuses take under an hour to get here from Palu's Terminal Inpres, dropping you at the bus terminal just short of Donggala, where a dokar or ojek can cart you into town. Alternatively, a taxi from Palu can deliver direct to accommodation places, which, excepting no-frills Losmen Bhakti (under $5) on Jalan Samauna, are all about 2km north of town at Tanjung Karang , a rocky headland with some gorgeous beaches. If you want to scuba dive , Prince John Dive Resort (US$122; price includes everything except beer) has all the facilities, and its bungalows overlook the reef; otherwise, there are cheaper, but good options nearby at Natural Cottages (under $5 including meals, open to negotiation) and Harmoni Cottages (under $5).