Solo's warung are renowned for local specialities such as nasi liwet - chicken or vegetables and rice drenched in coconut milk and served on a banana leaf - and nasi gudeg, a variation on Yogya's recipe. For dessert, try kue putu (coconut cakes) or srabi, a combination of pancake and sweet rice served with a variety of fruit toppings. Most of these delicacies can be purchased along Jalan Teuku Umar, one block west of Jalan Dahlan, and around the Sriwedari Park at night.

Kafe Solo , Jl Dr Rajiman 87. Stylish mid-priced restaurant with an excellent selection of beef and chicken steaks, salads and other Western dishes.

Kantin Bahagia , Pujosari Market, Jl Musium. Tiny bar and restaurant just to the south of Jalan Riyadi in the Pujosari Market, serving good-value Indonesian staples and cheap beer. Stays open till 1am.

Kusuma Sari , Jl Yos Sudarso 75. Large and spotless but lacking atmosphere, this restaurant sells good-value local dishes and Indonesian versions of Western food.

Monggo Pinarak , Jl Dahlan 22. This inexpensive restaurant/book and batik shop is owned by a well-travelled Bangladeshi and serves dishes from the subcontinent. Highly recommended.

Superman's , Jl Dahlan. Mid-price travellers' place specializing in steaks. Their nasi goreng special, with the rice wrapped inside an omelette, is a tasty twist on an Indonesian staple. Also serves arak.

Warung Baru , Jl Dahlan. Popular travellers' restaurant serving good, inexpensive food, including delicious homemade bread. Also organizes tours and batik courses.