The restaurants near the fish market off Jalan Pantai Timur should not be missed. The small square is surrounded by warung where you simply look through the iceboxes until you find your fish and then barter for it: Rp5000 max.

Chez Mama Cilacap , Jl Kidang Pananjung 187. Popular place whose specialities include black-rice pudding, lychees, longon and cr?pes suzettes.

Hilmans Restaurant and Fish Farm , Jl Merdeka 312. Outside the gates to Pangandaran town, but worth the trip. There's live music every night and the menu includes lobster tails (Rp130,000), sandwiches (Rp12,000) and Bintang (Rp10,000).

Holiday Beach Inn , Jl Bulak Laut 50. Deserves a mention simply because of its wonderful pizzas (Rp10,000-12,000), the best in West Java.

Number One , Jl Kidang Pananjung. Has a few Sundanese dishes such as nasi timbel (rice, chillies and vegetables) for Rp7500 as well as pizzas for Rp10,000; the arak cocktails are also an attraction.

Padang Jaya , Jl Pamugaran 37, right on the corner with Jl Pantai Barat. A typical Padang restaurant which serves very spicy fish curries; you'll have a job to spend more than Rp8000.

Relax , Jl Bulak Laut 74. Probably the swishest caf?/restaurant in town, Relax is well-known for its excellent but expensive home-baked bread, milkshakes and ice cream.