LABUAN is a dull and dirty port town, but it has good transport connections (3hr by frequent bus from Jakarta's Kalideres terminal) and is the best place to arrange independent trips to Krakatau , and to get the essential park permits (Rp5000). These are available from the PHPA parks office , which is quite far out along Jalan Perintis Kemerdekaan, heading towards Carita, almost opposite the Rawayan hotel. The BRI bank on the south side of the bus terminal will change cash and travellers' cheques. The post office is on Jalan Perintis Kemerdekaan heading towards Carita.

The best budget accommodation is Telaga Biru, just off Jl Raya Carita, about 2km from Labuan, across the road from the sea (no phone); all the quiet rooms have mandi inside. The more central Hotel Citra Ayu, Jl Perintis Kemerdekaan 27 (tel 0253/81229; under $5), is basic but clean. The nicest place in Labuan is Rawayan, out on the road towards Carita at Jl Raya Carita 41 (tel 0253/81386; $15-25), with quaint bungalows and private rooms, all en-suite.