Pine-crowned Gunung Lawu (3265m), a two-hour drive due east of Solo, is one of the largest - and least active - volcanoes on Java, and its forested slopes are dotted with temples, of which two, Sukuh and Ceto , have been restored to their former glory. The temples are usually visited on a day-trip from Solo, but the mountain provides perfect conditions for hikers, not least because of the gentle gradients and cool air. The main transport hub is Karangpandan , 45 minutes (Rp2000) by bus from Solo. From here there are frequent buses to the temples, and expensive ojek too.

The best place to stay up here is TAWANGMANGU , a hill resort on the southwestern slopes, 12km on from Karangpandan. The village spreads over one square kilometre from the bus station in the south up to the forty-metre waterfall, Grojogan Sewu (8am-4.30pm; Rp1500), at its northern end; catch an angkuta (Rp200) between the two. Below the bus station, at the bottom of the hill, the Balaistirahat Dana at Jl Lawa 47 (under $5) is the cheapest losmen in the village. Fifty metres up from the bus station stands the slightly better Pak Amat, Jl Raya Tawangmangu 117 (tel 0271/97022; under $5), which also has a recommended restaurant. All room rates double at the weekends.